-
-
- The development of EyeTrackVR is guided by an international
- team, some of whom have chosen to be featured below.
-
- EyeTrackVR developers are a group of people who are passionate about the field of augmented and virtual reality.
-
-
-
-
- Contributors
- Those who have actively contributed to development. Community Support
-
-
-
-
-
- Philosophy
-
- The guides on this website include some of our team's own notes (not all of them are polished) that we disclose for other people to use.
-
- Here, we hope you may find something useful to you.
-
- We advocate the Open Source model.
-
- This is why we strive to make our work open to other people for consultation, replication and reuse.
-
-
-
diff --git a/src/pages/archive/fox_ir_v2_build_instructions.md b/src/pages/archive/fox_ir_v2_build_instructions.md
deleted file mode 100644
index e18704e..0000000
--- a/src/pages/archive/fox_ir_v2_build_instructions.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,84 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Fox IR V2 Buil dInstructions {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## Step 15: Prepare to solder IR LED PCB V2s
-
-Get your magnifying glass out, it's time to solder very smol things.
-
-Gather 4 PCBs, 4 IR LEDs, and 2 ~700ohm resistors.
-
-
-
-Here are the PCB pin-out labels:
-
-
-
-LED labels:
-
-
-
-If you have different LEDs, please consult their datasheet.
-
-Some terminology related to them:
-
-`5V`: 5-volt power in.
-
-`GND`: Ground or power out.
-
-`AR`: After-Resistor this is to be used as the power in on the 2nd PCB in series as resistors are not needed on the 2nd PCB since they are on the 1st one.
-
-`SNG`: Single resistor, use this as 5V in if you are using ***only 1*** `~700ohm` resistor on V3 boards ***(not recommended)***.
-
-`Negative`: This marks the negative side of the LED.
-
-`Positive`: This marks the positive side of the LED.
-
-## Step 17: Solder resistors on PCB V2
-
-You only need 1 PCB to have a resistor per eye.
-
-
-
-Tin the resistor pads.
-
-
-
-Hold the resistor in place.
-
-
-
-Solder one end.
-
-
-
-Flip to the other side of the resistor and solder it.
-
-
-
-## Solder LEDs on PCB V2
-
-
-
-Tin the pads
-
-
-
-Place the resistor on the pads in the correct orientation.
-
-
-
-Solder each side of the resistor. Be careful not to solder at too high of a temp, recommended soldering temp is `230C with a max of 245C`.
-
-
-
-## Wire up the PCBs V2
-
-Basic full wiring diagram of IR PCBs V2.
-
-
-
-The PCB that receives the 5V power is the one with the resistor. The second one, which gets its power from the ground pin of the first, does not have a resistor on it and its power input pin is the AR pin (After-Resistor). The 2nd PCBs ground pin goes to the ground of the system, in the diagram it is the ESPs ground pin.
diff --git a/src/pages/contact.md b/src/pages/contact.md
deleted file mode 100644
index ab3af65..0000000
--- a/src/pages/contact.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,10 +0,0 @@
-
-
Contact Us
-
- Please join our Discord for updates and any questions.
-
-
-
-
-
-
diff --git a/src/pages/dev_roadmap.md b/src/pages/dev_roadmap.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 77b628e..0000000
--- a/src/pages/dev_roadmap.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,26 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# EyeTrackVR Development Roadmap {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-This will contain a list of features that are in progress, completed, and planned.
-
-## Completed
-
-
-
-## In Progress
-
-
-
-## Planned
-
-
diff --git a/src/pages/development/docs/dev_docs.md b/src/pages/development/docs/dev_docs.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 28a0c44..0000000
--- a/src/pages/development/docs/dev_docs.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,55 +0,0 @@
-# Development Documentation for the EyeTrackVR Docs Site
-
-This is the documentation for the EyeTrackVR Docs site. It is built using [VitePress](https://vitepress.vuejs.org/).
-
-## Getting Started
-
-### Prerequisites
-
-- [Node.js](https://nodejs.org/en/) (v14.15.4 or higher)
-- [Yarn](https://yarnpkg.com/) (v1.22.10 or higher)
-- [Git](https://git-scm.com/) (v2.30.1 or higher)
-- [VSCode](https://code.visualstudio.com/) (v1.56.2 or higher)
-
-### Installation
-
-1. Clone the repo
-
- ```sh
- git clone https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR-Docs.git
- ```
-
-2. Navigate to the `vitepress` folder
-
- ```sh
- cd vitepress
- ```
-
-3. Install Yarn packages
-
- ```sh
- yarn
- ```
-
-4. Start the dev server
-
- ```sh
- yarn dev
- ```
-
-5. Open the site in your browser
-
-## Contributing
-
-### Project Structure
-
-1. Familiarize yourself with the [VitePress documentation](https://vitepress.vuejs.org/).
-2. Then, move on to our project specific documentation below.
-
-#### Standards
-
-- All documentation should be written in Markdown or Vue components.
-- All file names are snake case *and* lowercase letters.
-- Do not make naming changes to the `vitepress` folder.
-- Do not make major changes to the `vitepress` folder structure without proir consultation of team members.
-- For Vue componentes, follow the [Vue3 docs](https://vuejs.org/guide/introduction.html).
diff --git a/src/pages/development/docs/pages.md b/src/pages/development/docs/pages.md
deleted file mode 100644
index afa2b8a..0000000
--- a/src/pages/development/docs/pages.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,72 +0,0 @@
-# Pages {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-This section will cover how to add or edit pages on the docs website.
-
-Please use the `Github Markdown` flavour for your Markdown files.
-
-Please look at other pages to see how they are formatted, and for examples of how to use Markdown.
-
-## Adding a Page
-
-To add a page, you will need to create a new Markdown file in the `vitepress/docs/src/pages` folder. The file name will be the URL of the page. For example, if you create a file called `my_page.md`, the URL will be `https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/my_page`.
-
-### Sub-directories
-
-You can also create sub-directories in the `vitepress/docs/src/pages` folder. For example, if you create a file called `my_page.md` in a folder called `my_folder`, the URL will be `https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/my_folder/my_page`.
-
-This is useful for organizing pages into categories.
-
-### Adding a Page to the Sidebar
-
-To add a page to the sidebar, you will need to add the page to the `vitepress/docs/src/custom/theme/index.js` file.
-
-To do this, you will need to add the page to the `sidebar` object.
-
-For example, if you want to add a page called `my_page.md` to the sidebar, you will need to add the following to the `sidebar` object:
-
-```js
-{
- text: "Getting Started",
- collapsible: true,
- items: [
- { text: "Introduction", link: "/getting_started/intro" },
- { text: "Things to know before you start", link: "/getting_started/things_to_know" },
- { text: "My Page", link: "/my_folder/my_page" }, // Add this line - subdir then file
- ],
-},
-```
-
-::: info Note
-The `link` property does not require a file extension. Please do not add it.
-:::
-
-### Title Style {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-The title style is the style of the title that appears at the top of the page.
-
-We like to keep this cohesive, so please use the following style:
-
-```md
-# My Page {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-```
-
-This will give the title a nice orange colour.
-
-The `{}` are required, and the `.text-[#e67e22]` is the colour using `TailWindCSS` classes. You can also use our built in CSS variables `{.text-[var(--font-accent)]}`. You will find these in the `src/styles/theme.css` file. You can change this to any colour you like, but please keep it consistent with the rest of the site.
-
-::: tip Tip
-This entire site supports `TailWindCSS` classes. You can find the documentation [here](https://tailwindcss.com/docs).
-
-All classes you wish to add, must be prefaced with a `.` when inside of the `{}`.
-
-When using classes on `HTML` elements, you can use the `class` attribute. For example:
-
-```html
-
My Page
-```
-
-:::
-
-## Editing a Page
-
-To edit a page, you will need to edit the Markdown file in the `vitepress/docs/src/pages` folder.
diff --git a/src/pages/development/docs/standards.md b/src/pages/development/docs/standards.md
deleted file mode 100644
index ad17eff..0000000
--- a/src/pages/development/docs/standards.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,63 +0,0 @@
-# Standards Guide
-
-Listed here are the standards that are used for the EyeTrackVR project. These standards are used to ensure that the project is consistent and easy to understand.
-
-## Code Standards
-
-### General
-
-It is by design that we use a static-site framework for the documentation site. This is to ensure that the documentation is easy to maintain and extend. This is also to ensure that the documentation is easy to understand.
-
-We have only a few rules for the documentation site:
-
-- All code should be written in English.
-- All code should be written in a way that is easy to understand.
-- All code should be written in a way that is easy to maintain.
-- All code should be written in a way that is easy to extend.
-- Our git commit style is to be followed, in english only.
-
-### Git Commit Style
-
-We use the [Conventional Commits](https://www.conventionalcommits.org/en/v1.0.0/) standard for our git commit style. This is to ensure that our git commits are easy to understand and easy to maintain. This is also to ensure that our git commits are easy to extend.
-
-Git commits are used to with the [Semantic Release](https://semantic-release.gitbook.io/semantic-release/) tool to automatically generate the changelog and versioning for the project. As such, it is important that we follow the Conventional Commits standard, with our own rule customizations.
-
-The following is a list of the customizations that we have made to the Conventional Commits standard:
-
-- We use the `BREAKING CHANGE(S)` or `BREAKING` text to indicate a breaking change.
-
-Our git commit style is as follows:
-
-```bash
-[optional scope]:
-
-[optional body]
-
-[optional footer(s)]
-```
-
-The following is a list of the types that we use:
-
-- `feat`: A new feature.
-- `fix`: A bug fix.
-- `docs`: Documentation only changes.
-- `style`: Changes that do not affect the meaning of the code (white-space, formatting, missing semi-colons, etc).
-- `refactor`: A code change that neither fixes a bug nor adds a feature.
-- `perf`: A code change that improves performance.
-- `test`: Adding missing or correcting existing tests.
-- `build`: Changes that affect the build system or external dependencies (example scopes: gulp, broccoli, npm, yarn, actions).
-- `ci`: Changes to our CI configuration files and scripts (example scopes: GH-Actions, yml, YAML).
-- `chore`: Other changes that don't modify src or test files.
-- `revert`: Reverts a previous commit.
-- `BREAKING CHANGE`: Indicate a breaking change.
-- `no-release`: This commit will not trigger a release.
-
-An example of our git commit style is as follows:
-
-```bash
-feat: add a new feature # this is the commit title
-
-- added new thing # some detail about the new thing
-
-BREAKING CHANGE: this is a breaking change #this line is optionaland only used if needed
-```
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/configure_firmware.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/configure_firmware.md
deleted file mode 100644
index b95a7a8..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/configure_firmware.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,76 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Configuring the firmware {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## Once you have opened the project, you should see something on the left side like this
-
-
-
-## Open the `ini/user_config.ini` file
-
-
-
-::: info
-These settings are applicable only when using Wi-Fi for communication with your computer. If you are using USB, you can skip to reading about [Environments](#environments).
-:::
-
-Replace the placeholder text with your correct SSID (WiFi access point name), and password respectively.
-
-::: info
-Special characters such as `!` and `@` are not supported. If you have a special character in your password or ssid, you will need to change it.
-
-Similarly, spaces are not supported in the SSID and password. If you have a space in either, you will need to change it.
-
-The firmware supports AP mode, however it is not recommended. If you wish to use AP mode, you will need to set the `enableadhoc` to `1`.
-
-Then, you will need to set the `ap_ssid` to the name of your AP, and `ap_password` to the password of your AP.
-
-You can choose to leave the `ap_ssid` and `ap_password` as defaults, but you will need to set the `enableadhoc` to `1`.
-
-> **Note**: If you are enabling AP mode for both ESPs, you will need to set the `ap_ssid` and `ap_password` to different values for both ESPs. It is best to set AP mode only for one ESP, and leave the other ESP in STA mode. Connect the other ESP to the AP of the ESP in AP mode. Then connect your computer to the AP of the ESP in AP mode. This will allow you to connect to the ESP in AP mode, and the ESP in STA mode.
-:::
-
-
-
-
- Make sure your WiFi router has a 2.4 GHz band. While most do, this is not always the case. Setting each band (5GHz, and 2.4GHz) to different SSIDs is recommended, though not required.
-
-
-
-
-Double check that you have correctly entered your WiFi credentials and that said wifi network has a 2.4GHz band.
-
-### Additional configuration
-
-#### `mDNS`
-
-If you do not wish to manually keep track of the ESPs IP addresses and ports, you can enable the mDNS feature. This will allow you to connect to the ESPs using the following format: `http://.local`. This feature only works when you are on the same network as the ESPs and have mDNS enabled on your computer. If you are using Windows, you can enable mDNS by following [this guide](./mdns).
-
-#### `OTA`
-
-The firmware supports OTA updates. This means that you can update the firmware without having to connect to the ESPs. To enable OTA updates, you will need to set the `enableota` to `1`. Then, you will need to set the `otapassword` to the password you wish to use to update the firmware. You will need to use this password to update the firmware. If you do not wish to use a password, you can set the `otapassword` to nothing. This will allow you to update the firmware without a password. However, this is not recommended, as anyone on your network will be able to update the firmware.
-
-You will also need to set the `otaserverip` to the IP address of the ESP you wish to update. This is the IP address of the ESP you wish to update. If you are using mDNS, you can use the mDNS name of the ESP you wish to update. For example, if you are updating the ESP with the dns set to `http://esp32.local`, you will need to set the `otaserverip` to `http://esp32.local`.
-
-#### `REST API`
-
-The firmware also supports a fully featured REST API. This means that you can control the ESPs using a REST API. This feature is enabled by defauly, and can not be turned off.
-
-This feature is used more for advanced users, and is not required for basic operation.
-
-The REST API was developed to be used by our new app (still in development). However, it can be used by any REST API client, you can not send POST requests to the ESPs using a browser though, so some REST API functionality can only be used by tools like [Thunder Client](https://www.thunderclient.com/) or [Postman](https://www.postman.com/).
-
-The full REST API is documented [here](/firmware_guide/rest_api.html).
-
-#### `Environments`
-
-The firmware supports multiple environments. This means that we have full support for multiple types of ESPs. Each ESP is configured to be in a different environment. If you are using a different ESP, you will need to change the environment to the correct one.
-
-Please reference the [Firmware Enviroments Page](../firmware_guide/environments) for more information.
-
-## [Now, move on to uploading the firmware](/firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware.html)
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/environments.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/environments.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 8fa6109..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/environments.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,62 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Firmware Environments {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## What is it?
-
-A firmware environment is a way to store the custom firmware config for a specific device. This is useful if you want to have multiple devices with different firmware configs.
-
-We use environments to store the firmware config for each device, so that you can easily switch between them.
-
-Environments are broken up into two distinct parts:
-
-- The `build type` (e.g. `debug`, `release`)
-- The `board type` (e.g. `espaithinker`, `esp32cam`)
-
-## Build Types
-
-We now have a couple of options letting us decide how we want to build the firmware.
-
-- `Debug` - The debug environment is the default environment and does not need to be specified. It has a lot of logging so it is useful for getting everything setup for the first time and to see what is going on.
-
-- `_release` - Has a lot less debugging, may also be missing some things available only in debug for debug purposes, this should be flashed when everything is working.
-
-Examples:
-`xiaosenses3` - This is the debug environment.
-`xiaosenses3_release` - This is the release environment for daily use.
-
-::: tip Tip
-We recommend starting with a debug environment, and then switching to release once everything is working. A debug environnement should not be used permanently.
-:::
-
-## Board Types
-
-We currently support for several different boards, and we are working on adding more.
-
-::: warning Warning
-It is important to note that the `esp32AIThinker` environment is the default environment. Only switch your environment if you have another board or an environment is not working.
-
-Most esp32Cams from Aliexpress will work with the `esp32AIThinker` environment, but some may require the `esp32cam` environment. Test the default environment first, and if it does not work, try the `esp32cam` environment.
-:::
-
-Currently supported boards:
-
-- `esp32AIThinker` - This is the default environment. This is for the ESP32-AI-THINKER and generic alibaba/aliexpress/amazon esp cam boards.
-- `esp32Cam` - This is for the special ESP32-CAM, it is unlikely that you will need to use this environment.
-- `esp32M5Stack` - This is for ESP32M5Stack.
-- `esp32WRover` - This is for the ESP32WRover.
-- `esp-eye` - This is for the ESP-EYE (not the S3 variant).
-- `wrooms3` - For FREENOVE-ESP32-S3 (*wireless mode*)
-- `wrooms3QIO` - For FREENOVE-ESP32-S3 (*wireless mode*, for boards with octal flash)
-- `wrooms3USB` - For FREENOVE-ESP32-S3 (*wired mode*)
-- `wrooms3QIOUSB` - For FREENOVE-ESP32-S3 (*wired mode*, for boards with octal flash)
-- `xiaosenses3` - For SeedStudio's XAIO ESP32-S3 Sense (*wireless mode*)
-- `xiaosenses3_USB` - For SeedStudio's XAIO ESP32-S3 Sense (*wired mode*)
-
-You can change the board enviroment by changing the `default_envs` argument in `platformio.ini` to a supported board like shown:
-
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/firmware.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/firmware.md
deleted file mode 100644
index ff86fa8..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/firmware.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,25 +0,0 @@
-# What is this? {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-Firmware is the second part of the equation to get your trackers going. It lives on the ESP32 chip, and is responsible for streaming video data from the tracker. We currently fully support wireless streaming over 2.4GHz, and are working on adding support for wired streaming to the main desktop App.
-
-## What should I download and where?
-
-You can access the firmware, as well as flash your boards, using our new [Firmware Flashing Tool](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/FirmwareFlashingTool).
-
-::: warning Caution
-This tool is currently in beta.
-:::
-
-We are working on adding support for Over-The-Air (OTA) and configuring network settings. If you have any issues, please let us know by opening an issue on the repository.
-
-This tool relies on our own solution called `OpenIris`, [found here](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/OpenIris).
-
-::: info Note
-You **do not** need to download OpenIris separately. The flashing tool will download it for you.
-:::
-
-To check the status of the project, please visit the [Development Road Map](/dev_roadmap)
-
-::: details I want to use VSCode - How would I do this?
-[Follow the steps described here](./setup_vscode)
-:::
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/flashing_tool.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/flashing_tool.md
deleted file mode 100644
index c880f49..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/flashing_tool.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,127 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Firmware Flashing Tool {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## Before we proceed
-
-::: info Note
-
-- Ensure you have a **data transfer cable** ready, as it is necessary for the flashing process.
-- Ensure that your camera is set up correctly [How to prepare a Seeed Studio XIAO Sense ESP32](../how_to_build/preparing_xiao).
-
-:::
-
-##
-
-### Step 1: Download and Install the Firmware Flashing Tool
-
-- Download the Firmware Flashing Tool Installer from the latest [GitHub release](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/FirmwareFlashingTool/releases).
-- Run the installer and follow the on-screen instructions to complete the installation of the Firmware Flashing Tool app.
-
-##
-
-### Step 2: Run the Firmware Flashing Tool app
-
-After the installation is complete, you should see an icon on your desktop. To open the application, double-click the icon.
-
-You then should be greeted with a GUI that looks like this:
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 3: Select board.
-
-We now have a couple of options letting us decide how we want to build the firmware.
-
-- `Debug`
- This is the default environment and does not need to be explicitly chosen. It includes extensive logging, making it ideal for initial setup and troubleshooting, as it provides comprehensive visibility into the system’s operation.
-
-- `_release`
- Has a lot less debugging, may also be missing some things available only in debug for debug purposes, this should be flashed when everything is working.
-
-Press left click on the `Select Board` dropdown, then choose your desired board from the list.
-Once you've selected your board, click **Confirm** to move on to the next step.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 4: Flash firmware.
-
-Once you're ready, hold down the **B** or **IO0** button on your board and connect it to your PC. (The button may be small, but it's there).
-Next, click **Install OpenIris** and select the port corresponding to your board to complete the installation.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 5: That's it!.
-
-Installation complete! Everything is set up and ready to go.
-Click **Show Logs** to view the results.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 6: Logs.
-
-If you choose the wired option, the correct logs should appear as follows.
-
-If the logs don't look right, ensure that your camera is properly connected to the board.
-
-
-
-## How to configure wifi.
-
-::: info Note
-
-- Please note that 5GHz networks are not supported by the hardware, so you will need to use a 2.4GHz network.
-
-:::
-
-##
-
-### Step 1: Select board
-
-Ensure that the selected board has a **wireless mode** checkmark below it.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 2: Configure wifi network
-
-You'll need to provide information about the network you're planning to connect to.
-
-`SSID`
-The SSID is your Wi-Fi name, make sure it doesn't contain any `special characters`.
-
-`Password`
-You'll need to provide the password used to connect to the selected Wi-Fi network.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 3: Send wifi credentials.
-
-Once the installation is complete, unplug your board, then reconnect it to the PC without pressing any buttons and press **Send credentials**.
-
-
-
-##
-
-### Step 4: Get working stream.
-
-After sending is complete, disconnect your board, then reconnect it to the PC without pressing any buttons, and click **Show logs**.
-
-Scroll down to find the text labeled **`IP: 192.168.XXX.XXX`**.
-
-
-
-This IP can then be entered into the app or a web browser like: `http://192.168.XXX.XXX`
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/mdns.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/mdns.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 93b1d44..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/mdns.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,45 +0,0 @@
-# MDNS {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## What is it?
-
-`mDNS` is a protocol that allows you to connect to a device using a name instead of an IP address. This is useful if you do not know the IP address of the device, or if you do not want to keep track of the IP address of the device. This is also useful if you are using a device that does not have a static IP address.
-
-In the `mDNS` protocol the IP address of the device can change, but the name of the device will always be the same. This means that you can connect to the device using the name of the device, even if the IP address of the device changes.
-
-## How to use it
-
-### Enable mDNS
-
-The `mDNS` is enabled by default on the new firmware, and can not be disabled.
-
-To use it, all you need to do is set the name of the device in the firmware config file.
-
-This setting can be located under the `[wifi]` section of the `ini/user_config.ini` file.
-
-```ini
-mdnsname = "openiristracker" # do not add .local
-```
-
-By default, the name of the device is `openiristracker`, however you can change it to whatever you want.
-
-::: warning Change the name
-Since you have two ESP32 devices, you need to make sure that the name of the device is different for each device. If you do not change the name of the device, you will not be able to connect to both devices at the same time.
-:::
-
-### Connect to the device
-
-To connect to the device, you need to use the name of the device followed by `.local`. For example, if the name of the device is `esp32`, you can connect to the device using `http://esp32.local`.
-
-## Prerequisites `Bonjour`
-
-`Bonjour` is required to use the `mDNS` protocol _for windows and mac only_. If you are using Windows, you can download Bonjour from [here](https://support.apple.com/kb/DL999?locale=en_US). If you are using macOS, Bonjour is already installed.
-
-You can also get the fully tested Bonjour package from us [here](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR/tree/GUI/GUI/assets/3rdParty) (for Windows only).
-
-## Troubleshooting
-
-### Can not connect to the device
-
-If you can not connect to the device, make sure that the name of the device is correct. If the name of the device is correct, make sure that the device is connected to the network.
-
-If the device is connected to the network, try to restart the device. If the device is still not connected, try to restart the router.
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/rest_api.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/rest_api.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 7c35229..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/rest_api.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,163 +0,0 @@
-# REST API {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## What is it?
-
-A REST API is a way to communicate with the ESP devices using HTTP requests. This is useful if you want to control the device from a computer or a mobile device.
-
-We developed a REST API for this project so that we can control the devices more easily from our new app.
-
-## How to use it
-
-### REST API Client
-
-Any REST API client can be used to communicate with the ESP devices. We recommend using [Thunder Client](https://www.thunderclient.com/) to test the REST API, as it's free and is a vscode extension.
-
-For basic `GET` requests, you can use your browser of choice.
-
-### Standard
-
-The REST API follows the following standard:
-
-```txt
-http://{device_name}.local:81/control/builtin/command/{endpoint}?{param}={value}&{param}={value}
-```
-
-> For example, if the name of the device is `esp32`, you can connect to the device using `http://esp32.local:81/control/builtin/command/`.
-
-### Endpoints
-
-::: info Note
-Any endpoint marked with `**` is currently not implemented, and will be implemented in the future.
-
-If you would like to help us implement these endpoints, please contact us.
-
-We are also open to suggestions for new endpoints.
-
-> **Note**: Any endpoint that makes changes to the config will require a call to `/save` to write the changes to the flash.
-> This is to prevent the flash from being written to too often, which can cause the flash to wear out.
-> The device will write the changes to the flash and then restart itself after a call to `/save`.
-:::
-
-The REST API has the following endpoints:
-
-| Endpoint | Method | Description |
-| :------: | :----: | :---------: |
-| /ping | GET | Returns the status of the device. |
-| /save | GET | Writes any changes to the flash. |
-| /restartDevice | GET | Restarts the ESP itself. |
-| /restartCamera | GET | Restarts the camera. |
-| /resetConfig | GET | Clears the current config in memory and RAM |
-| /getStoredConfig | GET | Returns a _JSON_ object of the devices current config. |
-| /setTxPower | POST | Sets the Transmission Power of the ESPs |
-| /setDevice | POST | Sets the `OTA` and `mDNS` settings |
-| /setCamera | POST | Sets all of the camera settings |
-| /wifi | POST | Adds a new wifi network, or writes over an existing one |
-| /wifi | DELETE | Deletes a wifi network `**` |
-
-::: info Note
-`/wifi` uses the `POST` method to add a new wifi network, and the `DELETE` method to delete a wifi network.
-:::
-
-### Params
-
-The REST API has the following params:
-
-::: danger Feature not a bug
-All params for a given URL are required, even if you are not changing that params value.
-
-If you do not supply a param, that param will be set to default settings.
-:::
-
-URL params are passed in the URL as a query string, using the following format:
-
-`http://.local:81/control/builtin/command/?=&=`
-
-#### /wifi
-
-::: info Note
-We allow you to store up to 3 wifi networks in memory. If you try to add more than 3, the oldest network will be overwritten.
-:::
-
-| Param | Description |
-| :---: | :---------: |
-| `ssid` | The ssid of the network. |
-| `password` | The password of the network. |
-| `networkName` | The unique name (given by you) to refer to that network in memory. |
-| `channel` | The channel for the wifi network to broadcast on only `1 - 14` are allowed. |
-| `power` | The Transmittion power of the ESP for that network config. |
-| `adhoc` | Whether to enable AP mode or not. |
-
-::: info Note - Transmission Power
-You must follow the following format for the `power` param:
-
-Using the following enum, you pass the _number_ to the right of the `=` sign that corresponds with the power in `dBm` that you wish to use.
-
-```cpp
-typedef enum {
- WIFI_POWER_19_5dBm = 78,// 19.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_19dBm = 76,// 19dBm
- WIFI_POWER_18_5dBm = 74,// 18.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_17dBm = 68,// 17dBm
- WIFI_POWER_15dBm = 60,// 15dBm
- WIFI_POWER_13dBm = 52,// 13dBm
- WIFI_POWER_11dBm = 44,// 11dBm
- WIFI_POWER_8_5dBm = 34,// 8.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_7dBm = 28,// 7dBm
- WIFI_POWER_5dBm = 20,// 5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_2dBm = 8,// 2dBm
- WIFI_POWER_MINUS_1dBm = -4// -1dBm
-} wifi_power_t;
-```
-
-:::
-
-#### /setDevice
-
-| Param | Description |
-| :---: | :---------: |
-| `hostname` | The hostname for the ESP used by `OTA` and `mDNS`. |
-| `service` | The service to look for when scanning `mDNS` devices on the network this should be set to `openiristracker` in order to look for `EyeTrackVR` devices |
-| `ota_password` | The password for the `OTA` service. |
-| `ota_port` | The port for the `OTA` service. |
-| `firmware_name` | The name of the binary file for `OTA` depricated and will be removed |
-
-#### /setTxPower
-
-::: info Note
-You must follow the following format for the `txPower` param:
-
-Using the following enum, you pass the _number_ to the right of the `=` sign.
-
-```cpp
-typedef enum {
- WIFI_POWER_19_5dBm = 78,// 19.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_19dBm = 76,// 19dBm
- WIFI_POWER_18_5dBm = 74,// 18.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_17dBm = 68,// 17dBm
- WIFI_POWER_15dBm = 60,// 15dBm
- WIFI_POWER_13dBm = 52,// 13dBm
- WIFI_POWER_11dBm = 44,// 11dBm
- WIFI_POWER_8_5dBm = 34,// 8.5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_7dBm = 28,// 7dBm
- WIFI_POWER_5dBm = 20,// 5dBm
- WIFI_POWER_2dBm = 8,// 2dBm
- WIFI_POWER_MINUS_1dBm = -4// -1dBm
-} wifi_power_t;
-```
-
-:::
-
-| Param | Description |
-| :---: | :---------: |
-| `txPower` | The power level to set. |
-
-### Camera Params
-
-| Param | Description | Value Effect |
-| :---: | :---------: | :---------: |
-| `vflip` | Whether to flip the frames vertically. | 0 or 1 |
-| `framesize` | A value between 0-7 indicating the frame resolution. | Larger number - higher resolution. |
-| `hflip` | Whether to flip the frames horizontally. | 0 or 1 |
-| `quality` | The JPEG quality level: 1-63? | **Smaller** number = higher quality, more latency and less fps |
-| `brightness` | The `agc_gain` of the camera. | Larger number = more bright. |
-
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/setup_vscode.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/setup_vscode.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 410491e..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/setup_vscode.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,62 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Setting up the environment {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-This procedure will show how to prepare your system for uploading the firmware to your tracker.
-
-## 1. Install Visual Studio Code
-
-Download the [latest Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com/download) and install it.
-
-### Download
-
-
-
-
-### Install
-
-
-
-
-## 2. Install the drivers
-
-In order to flash the firmware, you'll need some drivers, mainly the CH340 drivers, here's where to get them from:
-
-https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all
-
-## 3. Install PlatformIO IDE
-
-Once Visual Studio Code is installed, open it and install [PlatformIO IDE for VSCode](https://marketplace.visualstudio.com/items?itemName=platformio.platformio-ide), an extension that will allow you to connect to the tracker, build and upload the firmware.
-
-
-
-## 4. Clone the firmware project
-
-Make sure you close any current projects you have open or open a new window before moving forward with these steps.
-
-1. Go to [https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/OpenIris](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/OpenIris) and `clone` the latest version from the `main` branch.
- 1. If you do not have `git` installed please install it from [here](https://git-scm.com/download/win).
-
- 2. Open Git Bash.
-
-
- 1. Change the directory to the directory that you want the firmware to be cloned. Ex: `cd C:/`
-
-
-
- 1. Clone the repository by entering the command: `git clone https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/OpenIris.git`
-
-
-
- For more info about cloning please refer to [this documentation](https://docs.github.com/en/repositories/creating-and-managing-repositories/cloning-a-repository)
-
- _**Do not download as a zip**_ - please only properly clone the project, take note of the path you run the clone command in, this is where the files will be downloaded. When we open it in PlatformIO later, this path will be needed.
-
-1. Open the firmware in VSCode by going to PlatformIO, selecting open, then navigating to `OpenIris/ESP` folder and opening it.
-
-
-
-_This is an adaptation from SlimeVR. Some Credit goes to the SlimeVR team [adapted from here](https://docs.slimevr.dev/firmware/setup-and-install.html)_
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/update_platformio.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/update_platformio.md
deleted file mode 100644
index d3038fa..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/update_platformio.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,74 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Updating Platformio {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-Sometimes, when building and uploading the firmware, you may run into bizarre, even-though the code is correct - platformio will refuse to build and instead will complain with some weird error.
-
-It usually means that either PlatformIO, or ArduinoSDK got and update and that's the moment when this guide may come in handy.
-
-
-## Updating PlatformIO itself
-
-There are two ways to update your platformio installation
-
-### Via CLI
-
-You can update it easily by simply typing in one command into your terminal.
-
-
-
-1. Open a terminal / command prompt
-2. Type `pio upgrade` and press enter
-3. Wait for it to finish
-4. Done
-
-### Via PlatformIO in Visual Studio Code
-
-You can also update it using the platformio tab in your Visual Studio Code.
-
-1. Open VSC
-2. Click on that little and icon on the sidebar
-
-
-
-3. A side panel will open, there will be a couple of sections, one of them called `Quick Access`, open it.
-
-
-
-4. In `Quick Access` section, click on the `Miscelleneous` tab
-
-
-
-5. Then, click on the `Upgrade PlatformIO Core`
-
-
-
-6. Wait for it to finnish and done!
-
-## Upgrading the SDK
-
-You'll also need to upgrade the SDK from timem to do this
-
-### Upgrading the SDK via VSC
-
-1. Follow the guide above up until clicking on the `Quick Access` section.
-2. Instead, open the `PIO Home` and select `Open`
-
-
-
-3. This will open a window for PlatformIO dashboard, in there, click on a `Platforms` button on the sidebar
-
-
-
-4. Once there, you should see a couple of tabs next to the side bard, things like `Installed` or `Embedded`. Click on `Updates`
-
-
-
-5. Locate a platform called `Espressif 32` and click on `Update to `
-
-
-
-6. Wait until it is done and that's it!
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware.md b/src/pages/firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 937e96e..0000000
--- a/src/pages/firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,215 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Building and uploading the firmware manually {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-Uploading your firmware must initially be done over cable. Once you have the tracker connected to your WiFi after your first firmware update, you can opt to use [OTA](#how-do-i-use-it) in the future.
-
-## 1. Connect your tracker to your PC
-
-### Option 1: Connect ESP32-CAM via the programmer
-
-First, connect your ESP32-Cam to your programmer. In the case of the ESP32-Cam-MB board, it's as simple as sticking it into the socket the way it came in the package and then connecting it to your PC with a micro-USB cable.
-
-In some cases, there is a button labeled `IOO` on the programmer. If that button exists make sure to hold it in while you plug the programmer into your PC, once plugged in you can release the button.
-
-In the case of an FTDI programmer, the steps aren't as easy, so grab [this guide](https://randomnerdtutorials.com/program-upload-code-esp32-cam/) for how to set it up.
-
-### Option 2: Connect ESP32-S3 via USB-C directly
-
-To begin, connect your ESP32-S3 board directly to your PC.
-
-On the initial attempt, you may have to adjust the USB mode by pressing the BOOT button and holding it down,
-then pressing the RESET button while still holding down BOOT, and finally releasing the BOOT button.
-This will produce a sound indicating the connection of a new device.
-
-Once completed, you should be all set to proceed.
-
-## 2. Build your firmware
-
-1. Press the build button at the bottom of Visual Studio Code.
-
-> This builds the firmware, but does not send it to the ESP yet.
-
-
-
-## 3. Upload your firmware
-
-- If you are using the OTA method, skip to the [OTA section below](#how-do-i-use-it).
-
-- Once the firmware has been built, press the upload button to upload the firmware.
-
- This sends the firmware to the ESP.
- 
-
-
-
-
- The MB board does the resetting for you. If you're using the FTDI programmer, follow the guide linked above (the one from randomnerdtutorials)
-
-
-
-
-- If the upload is successful, you should get an output that looks like this:
-
- 
-
-Congratulations! You have now successfully uploaded the firmware to your EyeTrackVR Tracker!
-
-If you have trouble with uploading your firmware over cable check the following:
-
-1. Make sure your USB cable from the tracker is plugged firmly into your PC.
-2. Make sure that your USB cable is a data and charging cable (it is suggested you try other cables or devices with the cable).
-3. Make sure that your drivers are up-to-date.
-4. Some ports might not work, try other ones.
-
-Additionally, this can be caused by software hogging COM ports (**VSCode and Cura can be the cause of this**).
-
-## Uploading via OTA
-
-### What is it?
-
-OTA stands for `Over The Air`, and it is a way to update your firmware without having to connect your device to your computer.
-
-### How do I use it?
-
-To use OTA, you need to have working firmware on your ESPs first. Follow [the manual building guide](#Building-and-uploading-the-firmware-manually)
-
-Once you have manually flashed the firmware at least once, you can use the `OTA` environment to upate your ESPs.
-
-::: tip Coming Soon
-Currently, we only support OTA using the provided web interface, but we are working on a new app, where you will be able to upload your firmware to your ESPs over WiFi straight from the app.
-:::
-
-#### For firmware versions 1.1.0 and up:
-
-Since version 1.1.0 we've switched from using OTA via platformio to a more user-friendly approach.
-
-
-
-
- You don't have to have the trackers connected to your pc for any of these steps, just powered on and connected to the Wi-Fi.
-
-
-
-
-1. Build the firmware using your current environment, if you've switched to an OTA env in the past - repeat those steps but select the environment without the `_OTA` suffix. Next, press the checkmark button to build it without uploading.
-
-
-
-2. Turn on your trackers and wait for them to connect to Wi-Fi
-
-3. Locate their ip or mDNS name. For mDNS, the default is: [http://openiristracker.local/](http://openiristracker.local/)
-
-4. Having done that, open [http://\:81/update](http://openiristracker.local:81/update) in your browser
-
-for example: [http://openiristracker.local/](http://openiristracker.local:81/update)
-
-This should open a page similar to this:
-
-
-
-Click on the select file button, and navigate to where you cloned the project and then to the `ESP/` directory.
-
-Once there, open `.pio\build\your-environment` like so:
-
-> By default, windows treats files and directories with a dot in front of their name as hidden. To change that - [see here](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/view-hidden-files-and-folders-in-windows-97fbc472-c603-9d90-91d0-1166d1d9f4b5)
-
-
-
-You'll find a couple files in there, select the one named `your-environment-vVersion-feature`.
-
-like this one:
-
-
-
-5. Press upload and wait for it to finish. Done!
-
-
-
-#### For firmware versions of 1.0.0 and under:
-
-1. Retrieve the IP or mDNS name of the tracker you wish to flash. The IP can be found through network monitoring applications, or by viewing tracker output in a serial monitor.
-2. In the `ini/user_config.ini` file:
- - Put IP or hostname of device into config file
-
-Like so:
-
-```ini
-[ota]
-enableota = 1
-otaserverip = "openiristrackerL.local" # here we use a custom mDNS name
-otapassword = "12345678"
-otaserverport = 3232
-```
-
-3. Change to OTA env
-
-To do that, in visual studio code, locate the uplaod button, next to it will be listed a couple of buttons and your current environment.
-
- For example, if you have a working `esp32AIThinker` environment, you would change your environment to `esp32AIThinker_OTA`.
-
- Click on it.
-
-
-
-This will open a list of all available environments, select the one that matches your board and has a _OTA suffix
-
-
-
-4. Restart the ESPs, they **_must_** be power cycled
-5. Press the upload button to upload the firmware.
- 
-6. Do not touch esps or move them during OTA upload
-7. Wait around 1 minute.
-8. Repeat for as many trackers as you need.
-
-## Finding the IP address of your tracker
-
-Connect your tracker to your PC and then open a serial monitor in VSC by pressing the `plug` icon.
-
-
-
-Now, press the restart button on the esp itself.
-watch the monitor for output like this:
-
-
-
-The text, highlighted in green for demonstration, is the stream address of the camera. Take note of this for input into the software.
-
-Keep in mind while testing and getting set up, the ESP can only have one client, to use the camera in the app, make sure you close the browser tab you tested it in.
-
-# Updating the firmware to the newest version
-
-To update the firmware you'll need to follow a couple of steps.
-
-1. Open a terminal and enter the directory you've cloned OpenIris into, for example `cd C:/OpenIris/`
-
-2. Save your current changes to the config using `git stash`
-
-3. Download the newest changes from the repo using `git pull`
-
-4. Apply your saved changes so that you don't have to retype your WI-FI credentials using `git stash apply`
-
-
-
- Skip this step if the update message denotes that the config had changed. If it does so, retype your credentials in the updated files.
-
-
-
-
-4.1. If anything went wrong, you can reset everything to the default state using `git reset --hard` and then retyping your credentials
-
-5. Upload your firmware [following steps from the uploading section](#Building-and-uploading-the-firmware-manually)
-
-## Troubleshooting
-
-If you encountered an issue while following these steps check the [FAQ.](../misc/faq)
-
-If you don't find an answer to your question there ask in **#questions** channel in [the discord](https://discord.gg/kkXYbVykZX), we will be happy to help.
-
-*Adapted from the SlimeVR docs, Some Credit goes to the SlimeVR team [here](https://docs.slimevr.dev/firmware/setup-and-install.html)*
diff --git a/src/pages/getting_started/intro.md b/src/pages/getting_started/intro.md
deleted file mode 100644
index c0d8660..0000000
--- a/src/pages/getting_started/intro.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,81 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# EyeTrackVR {.text-3xl .font-bold .underline .text-[#ab5ac7]}
-
-Open source and *affordable* VR eye tracker platform for Social VR Games via `OSC` and `UDP` protocol.
-
-### Welcome to the EyetrackVR documentation website. Here you will find all available documentation regarding building, development, and other resources related to this project.
-
-Want to get started? Check out the [getting started page](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/getting_started/things_to_know) and then the [full build guide.](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/how_to_build/full_build)
-
-
-
-
- This project is in active development.
- However, it is working for most users.
-
-
-
-
-## About IR Emitter Safety
-
-Please *exercise caution* when messing around with IR emitters.
-
-IR can be dangerous to your eyes once at a certain power level. It is not recommended to use different emitters unless you know exactly what you are doing as it could result in harm to your eyes.
-If you doubt yourself, just do exactly what we do. Don't use different emitters, don't use different means of power, etc.
-
-::: danger
-It is important that you **DO NOT BYPASS (OR NOT DO) ANY SAFETY FEATURES PUT IN PLACE**. This can result in irreversible bodily harm.
-:::
-
-The safety measures were put in place to REDUCE the potential failure risk. All further safety responsibilities are on the user. This includes visually checking with an IR camera that the brightness is correct and that you do not feel warmth or experience short-term effects after being exposed to the IR light (symptoms such as dark spots or dry/warm feeling eyes while actively using). While we strive to make EyeTrackVR as safe as possible, we do not hold any responsibility for damage done.
-
-
-
-
- Make sure you are using non-focused emitters and no more than 5 mW/sr total power.
-
-
-
-
-::: details Want to see the safety data sheets?
-[Effect of infrared radiation on the lens](../safety/effect_of_ir_on_the_lens.pdf)
-
-[AN002_Details on photobiological safety of LED light sources](../safety/AN002_Details_on_photobiological_safety_of_LED_light_sources.pdf)
-
-[Training-library Nir Stds](../safety/training-library_nir_stds_20021011.pdf)
-
-[ICNIRP: Guidelines of limits of exposure to broad-band incoherent optical radiation (0.38 to 3 µm)](../safety/ICNIRP_optical_radiation.pdf)
-:::
-
-## Hardware
-
-Please check out our [parts list](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/how_to_build/parts_list) and [hardware repo.](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR-Hardware) for information regarding hardware.
-
-## Firmware
-
-Our firmware called OpenIris is made by `lorow` found [here](https://github.com/lorow/OpenIris).
-
-## Headset support
-
-In theory, we are compatible with every VR headset. However, mounts may not have been made yet.
-Please take a look at our list of [3d printable mounts](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/how_to_build/parts_list#_3d-printed-mounts) and see if your headset is on the list.
-If it is not listed, It is recommended that you try to make a mount, or wait for a skilled community member to create one.
-
-#### Contact
-
-Please join our discord for updates and any questions. We hope to see you there!
-
-
-
-# Licenses
-
-[](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR/blob/main/LICENSE)
-
-***All software is under the [MIT License](http://opensource.org/licenses/MIT).
-All documentation, including the [Wiki](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR/wiki), is under the Creative Commons CC-BY-SA-4.0 license***.
diff --git a/src/pages/getting_started/led_safety.md b/src/pages/getting_started/led_safety.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 89314c1..0000000
--- a/src/pages/getting_started/led_safety.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,92 +0,0 @@
-
-
-
-
-
-## About IR Emitter Safety
-
-Please *exercise caution* when messing around with IR emitters.
-
-IR can be dangerous to your eyes once at a certain power level. It is not recommended to use different emitters unless you know exactly what you are doing as it could result in harm to your eyes.
-If you doubt yourself or do not understand something, just do exactly what we do. Don't use different emitters, don't use different means of power, etc.
-
-::: danger
-It is important that you **DO NOT BYPASS (OR NOT DO) ANY SAFETY FEATURES PUT IN PLACE**. This can result in irreversible bodily harm.
-:::
-
-The safety measures were put in place to REDUCE the potential failure risk. All further safety responsibilities are on the user. This includes visually checking with an IR camera that the brightness is correct and that you do not feel warmth, excessive eye-strain or experience short-term effects after being exposed to the IR light (symptoms such as dark spots or dry/warm feeling eyes while actively using). While we strive to make EyeTrackVR as safe as possible, we do not hold any responsibility for damage done.
-
-
-### What we care about:
-
-We care about power exposure "W" to the cornea, which we can normalize over the exposed area to Irradiance "mW/cm^2"
-This number gives us the amount of IR radiation being released into the normalized area. We don't really care about "mA", or "V" alone, as by themselves these do not give us the exposure levels which we need to ensure safety.
-
-Irradiance also needs to take into account distance of the light source (LED) as the further away you get from a source the weaker the intensity gets. (You can test this by looking at a light source from far away, and as you move closer, the brighter and more painful it is to look at) We do this by using Radiance "mW/cm2/sr" to normalize for the distance. The 'sr' stands for steradian, which can be thought of as a cone shape expanding as it moves away from the source.
-
-
-The International Commission on Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection's [Guidelines of limits of exposure to broad-band incoherent optical radiation (0.38 to 3 µm)](../safety/ICNIRP_optical_radiation.pdf) states:
-> "To avoid thermal injury of the cornea and possible delayed effects on the lens of the eye (cataractogenesis), infrared radiation (780nm < > λ < > 3μm) should be limited to 100 W m⁻² (10 mW cm⁻²) for lengthy exposures (> 1000 s)"
-
-So 10 mW/cm2 is the **max** recommended limit given by this source. In my opinion this is still quite high, you will definitely feel some warmth and likely eyestrain after a while.
-
-It is known that when outside and not directly looking at the sun, your eyes get exposed to about 1 mW/cm2 or IR radiation. This is the target I set for hardware generally.
-
-
-
-
-
- This math is assuming the LED is directly in front of your pupil, and your pupil is not moving. In real world this is not the case. We have multiple LEDs around your eye, and your eye moves. When you look to the side, your pupil is not receiving all of the light from all LEDs and the distance grows as well. Properly calculating for this is hard and not worth the time. I chose to show that the "worst case scenario" is still well withing safety margins.
-
-
-
-
-
-# V3 Hardware Safety Outline and Exposure Numbers:
-For all of this math we will assume the "worst" to ensure we are well within safety.
-
-if powered with 5V, using 700 ohms of resistance, V3 Hardware will draw 0.00314... Amps. We will round up and convert this to 3.2mA.
-> (5V - 1.4V - 1.4V) / 700 ohm = 0.00314 ≈ 3.2mA
-
-The [LED datasheet](https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2211030000_XINGLIGHT-XL-3216HIRC-850_C965891.pdf) lists the intensity at 20mA to be a minimum of 2 and max of 5. We will assume the worst and use 5mW/sr.
-
-> 5 mW/sr * (3.2mA / 20mA) = 0.8 mW/sr
-
-Now, we need to account for distance. My number is based on a worst case scenario of 1cm of distance. (typically is is higher on average.) We convert 1cm to 1cm2/sr
-
-> 0.8 mW/sr / 1cm2/sr = 0.8 mW/cm2
-
-Now, this is only for 1 LED, in the case of V3 we have 2 so we can:
-> 0.8 mW/cm2 * 2 = 1.6 mW/cm2
-
-This value is well below the limit, and close to normal sun exposure outside.
-If the LEDs were further than 1cm (which they typically are) the exposure would be even less.
-
-
-
-
-
-# V4 Hardware Safety Outline and Exposure Numbers:
-For all of this math we will assume the "worst" to ensure we are well within safety.
-
-V4 hardware is actively limited to ~2.4 mA
-
-The [LED datasheet](https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2211030000_XINGLIGHT-XL-3216HIRC-850_C965891.pdf) lists the intensity at 20mA to be a minimum of 2 and max of 5. We will assume the worst and use 5mW/sr.
-
-> 5 mW/sr * (2.4mA / 20mA) = 0.6 mW/sr
-
-Now, we need to account for distance. My number is based on a worst case scenario of 1cm of distance. (typically is is higher on average.) We convert 1cm to 1cm2/sr
-
-> 0.6 mW/sr / 1cm2/sr = 0.6 mW/cm2
-
-Now, this is only for 1 LED, in the case of V4 we have 4 so we can:
-> 0.6 mW/cm2 * 4 = 2.4 mW/cm2
-
-This value is well below the limit, and not far from sun exposure.
-If the LEDs were further than 1cm (which they typically are) the exposure would be even less. And with typical eye movement they are less.
-
diff --git a/src/pages/getting_started/things_to_know.md b/src/pages/getting_started/things_to_know.md
deleted file mode 100644
index c937ac8..0000000
--- a/src/pages/getting_started/things_to_know.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,27 +0,0 @@
-# Things To Know Before You Start {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## This page is an overview of things to know and understand before you start this project
-
-### Software is not final
-
-Bugs can and will occur which may hinder the experience or usability at times.
-Do not expect 100% reliable and perfect function. Not all features are fully developed yet.
-
-### Firmware may have user difficulties
-
-Our firmware has not been tested widely so issues may creep up.
-
-### IR emitters are dangerous
-
-If handled wrong or precautions are ignored you can and will cause damage to your eyes. Please make sure to only buy linked ones or ones with specs that match exactly. We will not be responsible for damage caused if you go your own route.
-
-### Documentation may be incomplete
-
-Important steps may be missing.
-
-### You will need to set up your avatar to use this
-
-This will require basic knowledge of Unity and ownership of your own avatar.
-Note: The 2.0 beta version of our app uses VRC's Native eye tracking, which does **NOT** require a special avatar.
-
-### Once you have acknowledged the items above, move on to the [Full Build Guide](../how_to_build/full_build)
diff --git a/src/pages/headset_guides/valve_index.md b/src/pages/headset_guides/valve_index.md
deleted file mode 100644
index de88f13..0000000
--- a/src/pages/headset_guides/valve_index.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,153 +0,0 @@
-# Valve Index {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-These are two proven/tested ways to do a clean ETVR build on the Valve Index. Don't treat this as a *must follow*, but a setup to go for if you don't have other plans.
-
-### Recommended Valve Index lens mounts
-
-[Physics-Dude's 160° V18](https://github.com/Physics-Dude/Phys-Index-EyetrackVR-HW/blob/main/ETVR%20ValveIndex%20Cam-LED%20Mount%20Rings/Index-EyetrackVRv4%20v18%20Print%20Me.stl) (mirror the STL for left)
-
-[Foow17's 130 / 160°](https://makerworld.com/en/models/196741#profileId-217255)
-
-[Foow17's 130 / 160° VROPTICIAN](https://makerworld.com/en/models/196791#profileId-217311)
-
-[Frosty704's 160/120° WidmoVR Mount](https://github.com/Frosty704/indexwidmo-eyetrackvr)
-
-Please note due to the LED positioning, these will **require you to use the included 110mm extensions included in the V4 Kit**
-
-[V4 LED Kit Assembly](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/how_to_build/led_setup)
-
-## MUTEtheCyberwolf's DEV Frunk Mod:
-
-
-
-#### Mod Details
-The DEV Frunk is a popular choice for ETVR on the Index. Replacing the original index frunk entirely, it has multiple mounting points for both the XIAO's, a Vive Facial Tracker (or [project babble!](https://babble.diy/)), and cutouts for 30x30x7mm fans.
-
-It also provides excellent ventilation simply due to the design being much more open, as well as a flip up design for the face tracker mount.
-
-Combined, it creates a clean setup with no need for hot glue or alternatives to mount your hardware.
-
-#### Extra Parts Needed:
-I recommend a screw kit like [this](https://www.amazon.com/XOOL-Precision-Screwdriver-Extension-Smartphone/dp/B086SQZGLJ) one
-- 1x T5 Torx Screwdriver
-- 1x H3.0 Screwdriver
-- 1x Soldering Iron for heat inserts
-- 8x M4x8.1 Heat Inserts [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804349544912.html) Choose Size: M4 (OD 6mm)50pcs | Color: Length 8mm
-- 6x M4x10 Screws [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832624557792.html) Choose Size: M4 20pcs | Length: 10mm
-- 1x M4x30 Screws [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832624557792.html) Choose Size: M4 20pcs | Length: 30mm
-
-#### 3D Printed Mounts
-Found at MUTEtheCyberwolf's [GitHub Repo](https://github.com/MUTEtheCyberwolf/VALVE-INDEX-DEV-Frunk-1.0/tree/main/3D%20Print%20Files%20STL(Ascii))
-
-You will need to print:
-- 1x Coverplate for XIAO Retention Clip (Logo or no Logo)
-- 1x XIAO Retention Clip (Letters or no Letters)
-- 1x Eyetrack VR Prototype XIAO Mount.stl
-- 1x FacialTrackerBeerHingeVIDEVFrunk1.stl
-- 1x FacialTrackerBridgeVIDEVFrunk1.stl
- - Alternatively, if you have the [LDLRUI USB HUB](https://www.amazon.com/LDLrui-4-Port-Splitter-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B0BLHCD7FS), [this modified version](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ldlrui%20case%20and%20bridge%20merged-FacialTrackerBridgeVIDEVFrunk1.stl) of the DEV Frunk Bridge can snap fit the hub onto the bridge. [Example](https://i.imgur.com/kRvx56r.jpeg)
-- 1x ValveIndexDEVFrunk1.stl
- - Alternatively, if you are interested in routing the ribbon cables internally, [this modified DEV Frunk](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ValveIndexDEVFrunk1_MODIFIED.stl) has holes at the top for sliding through ribbon cables and power cables. [Example](https://i.imgur.com/RcYQ8xd.png)
-
-
-
-### Assembly Details:
- #### 1. Heat Inserts
-1. Start with inserting your heat inserts to the designated holes on the frunk. Place the heat inserts so the side with the smaller radius sits in the hole
-- When heating up the inserts, **let the weight of the soldering iron do the work**, they make take a few seconds to start moving on their own.
- - **Do not push down**, and remove the iron when they are level with the print. It doesn't need to be perfect, so take your time!
-
-
-
-Bottom picture courtesy of amoistman
-
-2. Next, place a heat insert into the bigger hole of the facial tracker bridge
-
-
-
-3. Lastly, place another heat insert into the thick side of the beer hinge
-
-
-
-
-4. Your finished heat inserts should look like this
-
-
-
-Picture courtesy of amoistman
-
-#### 2. Screws
-
-Now you're done with the hardest part!
-We can move onto screwing in the XIAO Mount and Facial tracker bridge onto the frunk, into the heat inserts we just inserted.
- - The XIAO mount should be placed so the longer side is not blocking the fan holes
- - If you have trouble screwing them in, try screwing them equally to distribute the pressure more evenly.
- - Screw one a little, screw the opposite the same amount, repeat.
-
-
-
-Two last things to screw in will be the beer hinge and vive facial tracker or babble case if you have it
-
-1. Place the smaller hole of the beer hinge inbetween the bridge's screw holes.
- - Screwing in **opposite** of where the heat insert is. You should be screwing ***into*** the heat insert
-
-
-
-
-2. For the last screw, repeat the same steps, but line up your face tracker or babble case. Screw from the same direction, into the heat insert of the beer hinge.
-Use either an M4x10 or an M4x30. I find the M4x10 sometimes loses tension, while the M4x30 doesnt.
-
-3. Your final result should look like this
-
-
-
-#### 3. Mounting components
-
-1. You can now push the XIAO's into the mount, making sure they are down snug, if you haven't already.
-
-
-
-
-2. Place your V4 LED kit PCB into the middle of the XIAO Retention Clip. Ensure the hole in the PCB alligns with the small bump on the retention clip.
-You will have to slide it in and push it under the overhangs until they snap over the PCB.
-
-
-
-3. Route your V4 LED connectors through the coverplate holes prior to putting it on
-
-
-
-4. Place the coverplate ontop of the LED PCB until the front of it snaps down and locks it over the retention clip.
-
-5. Then you can slide the retention clip over your XIAO mount to keep them in place.
-
-
-
-#### 4. Replacing frunk
-
-**PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR INDEX FROM POWER BEFORE CONTINUING**
-
-You must have a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the original index frunk screws, we will use the same screws to hold the dev frunk in place.
-
-Picture courtesy of iFixit
-
-
-
-1. If you do not have fans, and are mounting a USB Hub infront, I recommend now plugging in the USB hub through the fan holes, as you won't be able to after dev frunk is screwed on.
-
-Alternatively, you can use the USB C port below the middle bottom screw, and passthrough a hub with a [FEMALE USB-C/A to MALE USB A](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802596853859.html) cable
-
-2. Once the frunk is removed, line up your DEV Frunk and screw it back in the same way. Support it in a way you can screw in without it falling.
-
-
-
-
-
-## Physics-Dude's Gumstick USB Hub Dongle
-
-
-
-#### Mod Details
-Physics-Dude's Gumstick Dongle provides a way to cleanly install EyeTrackVR, all fitting into the frunk. It will require significantly more tinkering and ability to solder.
-
-### Installation instructions and BOM available on [Physics-Dude's Repo](https://github.com/Physics-Dude/Phys-Index-EyetrackVR-HW/tree/main?tab=readme-ov-file#gum-stick-usb-hub-dongle)
diff --git a/src/pages/headset_guides/what_is_this.md b/src/pages/headset_guides/what_is_this.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 486b2ed..0000000
--- a/src/pages/headset_guides/what_is_this.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,109 +0,0 @@
-# What are "Headset Specific Guides"?
-
-This is an initiative to provide specific information on specific headsets. Any weird quirks, recommended 3d printed mounts and different setup types are to be included on a page.
-
-Complete submissions will receive a 20% off coupon for the ETVR store. Partial completions (one specific mount) will receive 15% off coupons to show our appreciation and provide an incentive. (reach out to me in dms to receive the code `@prohurtz`)
-
-Thank you for working to improve EyeTrackVR's accessibility!
-
-
-### Guidelines
-
-Please keep it as concise as possible, and spell check before submitting. You can submit by making a PR on github, or sending the `.md` file to #documentation in the ETVR Discord pringing `@prohurtz` .
-
-
-file name: `headset_name.md`
-ex. `HTC_Vive_Pro_2.md`, `Bigscreen_Beyond.md`
-
-Page formatting and template:
-
-# Headset Name
-
-## Xyz's mod:
-[image(s) of mod (limit ~2)]
-
-#### Mod Details
-This mod supports lens inserts and is very compact and easy to use. It provides good frunk ventilation and wide hardware support.
-
-#### Extra Parts Needed:
-- 2x Camera extensions
-- 2x Camera extension connectors
-
-[Parts Link](../how_to_build/part_list#additional-parts)
-(If the parts needed are not on the additional parts page, let me know. You can also just directly link to them.)
-
-#### 3D Printed Mounts
-Found at Xyz's [GitHub](https://github.com/)
-
-You will need to print:
-- 2x camera mount
-- 2x frunk mount
-
-Lens insert support Yes/No: Yes [Compatable mount](https://github.com)
-::: info Note
-There are 160 and 130-degree variants for camera mounts; pick which one corresponds with your cameras.
-:::
-
-
-#### Assembly Details:
-(make sure to include quirks of setup not covered in other parts of documentation)
-
-First, screw an M2 screw into the hole on part A:
-
-[image showing "part A" and screw]
-
-You must have a Torx screwdriver set to remove the frunk screw, do so now.
-
-[image]
-
-Then attach part b and tighten:
-
-[image]
-
-Now clip on
-[image]
-
-## Abc's mod:
-[image(s) of mod (limit ~2)]
-
-#### Mod Details
-This mod supports lens inserts and is very compact and easy to use. It provides good frunk ventilation and wide hardware support.
-
-#### Extra Parts Needed:
-- 2x Camera extensions
-- 2x Camera extension connectors
-- 50 M3 screws
-[Parts Link](../how_to_build/part_list#additional-parts)
-(If the parts needed are not on the additional parts page, let me know. You can also just directly link to them.)
-
-#### 3D Printed Mounts
-Found at Abc's [GitHub](https://github.com/)
-
-You will need to print:
-- 2x camera mount
-- 2x frunk mount
-
-Lens insert support Yes/No: Yes [Compatable mount](https://github.com)
-::: info Note
-There are 160 and 130-degree variants for camera mounts; pick which one corresponds with your cameras.
-:::
-
-
-#### Assembly Details:
-(make sure to include quirks of setup not covered in other parts of documentation)
-
-First, screw an M2 screw into the hole on part A:
-
-[image showing "part A" and screw]
-
-You must have a Torx screwdriver set to remove the frunk screw, do so now.
-
-[image]
-
-Then attach part b and tighten:
-
-[image]
-
-Now clip on
-[image]
-
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/3d_printed_mounts.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/3d_printed_mounts.md
deleted file mode 100644
index ad54a7f..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/3d_printed_mounts.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,21 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# 3D Printed Mounts {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-
-Mounts with a `★` next to them are the recommended mounts for the respected hmd. This is based on user feedback on what works best for most people.
-
-
-
-
-
- Keep in mind, some mounts only have the right(or left) version available. You will need to use blender or any slicer to mirror an STL for the other side.
-
-
-
-
-
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/DiyTable.vue b/src/pages/how_to_build/DiyTable.vue
deleted file mode 100644
index e3bd5b6..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/DiyTable.vue
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,437 +0,0 @@
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/creating_your_own_mount.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/creating_your_own_mount.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 79dcaef..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/creating_your_own_mount.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,38 +0,0 @@
-# Creating Your Own Mount {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## This page will include a basic rundown on how to create your own camera mount for a headset that may not have any existing community mounts
-
-So, you have a headset that does not have any mounts or none that work well for you. Here I will show some simple steps to get some form of a mount working.
-
-## Step 1: Find a way to mount to your headset's lens
-
-The easiest way to get started is to find a lens protector for your headset.
-You can visit a website like [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/) or do a search for "3d printed lens protector for {your headset here}"
-
-Example: Here is a lens protector for the Quest 1/2 and Rift S [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3653631](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3653631)
-
-## Step 2: Find a camera mount
-
-Now, you need a way to attach the camera. We have a basic design created by qdot, based on his mount on the hardware GitHub [here](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR-Hardware/blob/main/3d_Printed_Mounts/Basic_Mount_Components/basic_ETVR_camera_mount.stl)
-
-Alternatively, you can create your own mount if you have the skills.
-
-## Step 3: Place the camera mount where it will give a good camera angle
-
-The "Ideal" location is a place that gives a good view of the pupil when looking to all extremes, the lower corners do a good job at getting there, or nearly there.
-
-It is recommended to place the camera as close as possible to the headset's lens to maximize the view of the eye.
-I recommend looking at other headset mounts for [inspiration.](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR-Hardware/tree/main/3d_Printed_Mounts)
-
-## Step 4: Mount your LEDs
-
-You can either add parts to your mount for holding the LED boards or just glue them on. It's up to you and what works best for you, experiment!
-
-## Step 5: Test everything
-
-It is unlikely you will get a perfect mount on the first try. Print, test, adjust, and repeat until you have a satisfactory mount.
-Good luck!
-
-## Step 6: Get your mounts listed
-
-Send me the mount to be added to the docs here! You can upload it to Thingiverse or similar services, or just send me the .STLs via discord `(Prohurtz#0001)`
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/full_build.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/full_build.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 69427b0..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/full_build.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,326 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# V3 Build Guide {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## This page will contain a step-by-step assembly guide.
-
-## Updated documentation is still in progress and not updated here, please be patient.
-
-This guide provides a walkthrough on the assembly of a **wireless** V3 eye tracking.
-V4 specific final docs are Work In Progress:
-[V4 LED Solderless assemblly rough edit:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVUbDNe7uNU)
-
-
-
-Sketch of V4 solderless wiring:
-
-Credit: @balty via [Discord](https://discord.gg/kkXYbVykZX)
-
-Sketch of solder assembly of V4:
-
-
-
-Nevertheless, it's worth noting that these instructions are also mostly applicable to those who are using wired or V4 trackers.
-
-## Step 1: Make sure your have read the [Things to know before you start](../getting_started/things_to_know) guide
-
-This will give you a basic overview of the project's status and what to expect currently.
-
-## Step 2: Order all the parts listed on our [Parts list](../how_to_build/parts_list)
-
-Please take note of the fact that hardware still may change, although with more developments it seems like we are going to stick with current hardware.
-
-## Step 3: Wait for things to arrive
-
-Long shipping times from China are *f u n*.
-Please allow anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months for everything to arrive.
-
-## Step 4: Gather up all of your hardware
-
-Make sure you have at least the following:
-
-
-
-
-
-## Step 5: Install external antennas or shield ESP antenna with an antistatic bag
-
-Some ESP-CAM boards have issues with signal integrity, there are 2 things you can do to help/solve the issues.
-
-The first option is to use an external antenna.
-
-This is the best solution when it comes to the final result. If you have Vive/Tundra trackers, this is a **REQUIRED** step. The interference from the trackers will make your ESP stream unusable. An antistatic bag does not help in this case. Unfortunately, removing the antenna is not super easy, you have to either move a resistor or, remove it and bridge 2 solder pads. The attached image below shows the orientation of the pads that need to be connected, depending on the mode You can not bridge all connections and have both antennas active at the same time. The 0-ohm resistor does not need to be on the board, you can simply bridge the connections.
-
-
-
-Below is an example of bridging the connections and attaching an antenna.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-The second option is to cover the ESP's antenna with an antistatic bag.
-This can help aid problems, and can completely solve them in some cases. Best of all, it is completely free! However, it should be noted that it performs worse than an external antenna and in certain cases will not solve the issue like if you have Vive trackers.
-
-
-
-
-
-## Step 6: Attach cameras to ESPs
-
-Look at your ESP and locate the camera ribbon cable connector as circled below.
-
-
-
-Flip the gray part up to allow the cameras to be connected. Do not force it, or shove objects into it to open, fingernails are fine.
-
-
-
-Now slide in a camera, please note that the pins are facing down, you should only see the black part.
-
-
-
-Once the camera has been slid in, press the gray part of the connector back down. There will be a small amount of force but still be gentle.
-Note the ammount of black coming out of the connector.
-
-
-
-## Step 7: Connect ESP to the programmer to flash
-
-Why flash before you have it assembled? It's simple, to make sure they actually work before you spend time soldering to them.
-
-Slide your ESP into the programmer, and note the USB port goes away from the ESP's camera.
-
-
-
-## Step 8: Configure Visual Studio Code and prepare to flash the firmware
-
-Check out our guide on [Setting up VS Code](../firmware_guide/setup_vscode)
-
-Once VS Code is set up, move on to the next step.
-
-## Step 9: Plug in your ESP and flash the firmware
-
-Our guide, [Building and uploading the firmware manually](../firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware) has steps on how to do this.
-After it has flashed, make sure you get a video stream in your browser, then power it down and flash your next ESP.
-
-## Step 10: Connect your power wires to a USB Type-A board
-
-::: warning
-Powering from the programmer board **will not work correctly**. This delivers a lower voltage which results in dim LEDs and video artifacts. These are highly likely to mess up tracking.
-:::
-
-Get two pairs of wire, preferably two different colors, Cut them to length (56mm in my case) and twist together two for ground and two for 5V.
-Here I used speaker wire where the copper denotes positive and silver negative.
-Then, strip the wires to about 3mm of exposed wire.
-
-
-
-## Step 11: Cut wires for IR LEDs
-
-To find the optimal length, take a piece of wire and a marker and mock up your wire route, and mark the wire, cut it, then make another at the same size for the other eye.
-You will need 3 different cuts of wire. 2 short ones for connecting the 2 PCBs per eye together, 2 Longer ones for power, or ground and 2 slightly longer ones for power or ground for the LED near the camera at the bottom.
-
-Once cut, strip them to around 4mm of exposed wire.
-
-## Step 12: Twist the positive USB wire and positive IR LED wires together and tin them
-
-Once twisted together add solder to keep them together. This makes the connection much easier.
-
-
-
-## Step 13: Solder the positive wire to ESP
-
-Lay the wire on the outside of the 5V pin and apply solder.
-
-
-
-## Step 14: Solder the negative wire to ESP
-
-Repeat [Step 12](#step-12-twist-the-positive-usb-wire-and-positive-ir-led-wires-together-and-tin-them) but with the negative wires.
-
-::: info
-As a user in our discord has learned, you can short the `IO12` pin with the ground pin `(GND)` without issues.
-:::
-
-In the below example I put it on the top of the pin, It will be a weak-ish joint but that's where glue comes in handy.
-
-
-
-## Step 15: Wire up the 2nd ESP
-
-Repeat steps [12](#step-12-twist-the-positive-usb-wire-and-positive-ir-led-wires-together-and-tin-them)-[14](#step-14-solder-the-negative-wire-to-esp) with the 2nd ESP.
-
-## Step 16: Prepare to solder IR LED PCBs
-
-Get your magnifying glass out, it's time to solder very smol things.
-
-Gather 4 PCBs, 4 IR LEDs, and either 4 ~350ohm.
-
-
-
-Here are the PCB pin-out labels:
-
-
-
-LED labels:
-
-
-
-If you have different LEDs, please consult their datasheet.
-
-Some terminology related to them:
-
-`5V`: 5-volt power in.
-
-`GND`: Ground or power out.
-
-`AR`: After-Resistor this is to be used as the power in on the 2nd PCB in series as resistors are not needed on the 2nd PCB since they are on the 1st one.
-
-`SNG`: Single resistor, use this as 5V in if you are using only **1** `~700ohm` resistor on V3 boards (not recommended).
-
-`Negative`: This marks the negative side of the LED.
-
-`Positive`: This marks the positive side of the LED.
-
-## Step 18: Solder resistors on PCB V3
-
-You only need 1 PCB to have resistors per eye.
-
-Tin the resistor pads. Note: in this example, I use too much solder, it should only be enough to lightly cover the pad.
-
-
-
-Next, grab a resistor and hold it on the pads.
-
-
-
-While holding the resistor add solder to your soldering iron and apply it to the resistor.
-
-I like to do this by having a piece of my solder stick up in the air and then put it on my iron that way.
-
-
-
-Flip the PCB and solder the other end.
-
-
-
-Now repeat for the other one.
-
-
-
-## Solder LEDs on PCB V3
-
-Tin the LED pads.
-
-
-
-Orientate the LED and hold it in place.
-
-
-
-Solder one end.
-
-
-
-Flip around and solder the other end.
-
-
-
-## Wire up the PCBs V3
-
-::: warning
-Pay attention to the direction of the LEDs on the PCBs.
-:::
-
-If the green dot is facing inwards toward the text like in the picture below:
-
-
-
-Use the following diagram:
-
-
-
-If the green dot is facing away from the text like the picture below:
-
-
-
-Use the following diagram:
-
-
-
-## Step 19: 3D print mounts
-
-Head to the 3D printed parts section of the parts list [here.](../how_to_build/parts_list#_3d-printed-mounts)
-
-Find which parts are for your headset and print them.
-Some may work better or worse, it is recommended to test all of them if there are multiple, print one of each kind.
-If none work, try making an edit yourself if you have the skills. If you have made a mount make sure to ping me, `Prohurtz#0001`, so I can add them to the list.
-
-Having trouble getting them to fit? Try resizing the mounts up, or down a little to ensure a good fit.
-
-There are 2 different types of mounts, how to secure the camera to each type will be documented below.
-
-### Type 1
-
-
-
-This uses a method of sliding in the camera. Generally, this is the recommended mounting method as it generally requires no glue.
-
-Place the camera into the mount
-
-
-
-Slowly apply pressure inwards until the camera snaps into place.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- There is a good chance of breaking the mount when putting in the camera. If this happens you may be able to save the mount depending on where the break was. A small dab of hot glue around the camera is likely all that is needed.
-
-
-
-
-
-### Type 2
-
-
-
-This method involves gluing the camera in place.
-
-Apply a bit of glue to the bottom of the camera mount.
-
-
-
-Place the camera on the mount.
-
-
-
-## IR LED mounting
-
-This again differs from mount to mount.
-
-In some cases, there are designated spots for the LEDs to go.
-
-
-
-In others there are no specified spots, you will have to mess around to find what works best.
-This image shows the optimal/near-optimal position for the LEDs. Hot glue is your friend with this.
-
-
-
-::: tip
-Use rubbing alcohol to easily remove hot glue.
-:::
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/led_setup.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/led_setup.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 78eb701..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/led_setup.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,94 +0,0 @@
-Pardon the mess, this page is WIP more docs for other configurations and assemblly are in the works.
-
-# How to assemble a V4 mini LED hardware kit:
-
-## Getting to know your hardware
-
-There are 3 main components of an IR LED kit; the mainboard, LEDs and wires.
-
-
-### Mainboard
-Below is the V4 mini mainboard with major features labled.
-
-
-
-
-### LEDs
-There are 2 different types of LED boards.
-The one you should have more of are the "N" LEDs. N stands for Normal, these make up 3 of the leds per eye.
-
-
-
-
-The second type is the "E" LEDs. E stands for End as these are put at the end of the LED strand.
-
-
-
-
-In future orders the "E" LEDs will be purple for easier distinction.
-
-
-### Wires
-The included wires are a bit special, they have 3 pins on the connectors but only 2 wires are attached.
-
-
-This distinction is crutial in assembling a kit as the wires need to go in a specific orientation outlined in the assembly picture which shows the pins without wires as dashes - - -.
-
-## Wiring up V4 mini
-
-Start by pluggin in the long wires to the main board like shown.
-
-
-
-
-
-Then connect the wires to leds in the sequence:
-
-`Mainboard -> N LED -> N LED -> N LED - > E LED`
-
-You need to **pay very close attention** to the **orientation** of the wires so that the missing wire is facing the correct way. The following image shows a kit fully assembled:
-
-
-
-Here is an example of the right eye's LED strand.
-
-
-
-# How to assemble V4 Lite LED kit:
-
-## Getting to know V4 lite
-
-V4 lite is a soldering-required approach to LEDs. There are a few specific caveats to know before assembling and using this hardware.
-
-1. The board must be supplied with 5v.
- - Other voltages may result in darker/non functioning LEDs.
-
-2. You must change resistors if you change from a single or dual eye setup to the other.
- - Not doing so will result in too dim of LEDs or extremely bright LEDs. Ensure you are always using the correct one for your application.
-
-3. Shorts on the main board can result in damaged hardware, dangerously bright LEDs, or nonfunctioning hardware.
- - Please ensure there are no shorts (even very small stray solder strands) between any pins or solder joints on the main board or LEDs.
-
-## Wiring up V4 Lite
-
-First, decide if you want dual eye or single eye operation and pick the appropiate resistor.
-
-**__Single Eye:__**
-Use the 130ohm resistor marked with Black, Black, and Gold middle rings:
-
-
-
-
-**__Dual Eye:__**
-Use the 65ohm resistor marked with Yellow, White and Gold middle rings:
-
-
-
-Now, solder the resistor on the board (any orientation), and then the black 3 pin voltage regulator (orientation matters, solder on the side with the white outline and have it fit in the outline's shape)
-
-
-
-
-Now, wire up the LEDs like shown.
-
-
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/part_list.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/part_list.md
deleted file mode 100644
index de8b688..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/part_list.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,64 +0,0 @@
-
-
-WIP new parts list. 3D printed parts will live on their own page.
-
-Use the **interactive** tables below to select parts!
-
-# Required Parts:
-
-
-
-# Additional Parts:
-
-
-
- Table modified greatly from the table on [SlimeVR's Docs](https://docs.slimevr.dev/diy/components-guide.html) which was created by [Carl](https://github.com/carl-anders)
-
-## ESP setup options:
-::: danger
-There are two primary categories of trackers supported: wireless and wired.
-It's super important that you really look at all your options and consider your use case before making a decision.
-:::
-
-## Option 1: Wireless over WiFi 2.4 GHz
-### Wireless Capable ESPs:
-
-* Seeed Studio XIAO Sense
-* ESP32-CAM
-* FREENOVE ESP32-S3-WROOM CAM Board
-
-This offers a good starting point as the ESP32 CAM boards are cheaper than wired capable trackers.
-However, they can be a bit more temperamental and if you are using a wired headset, they don't really make sense.
-
-**Pros:**
-- Not as experimental
-- Less cables (power only)
-- No issues with USB hubs
-
-**Cons:**
-- Requires two external antennas for optimal streaming quality
-- Requires WiFi 2.4 GHz router or access point in reasonable proximity
-- High risk of radio interference with FBT and other WiFi 2.4 GHz devices
-- ESP32-CAM uses more power and heats up due to radio power needs
-
-## Option 2: Wired over USB Serial (in beta)
-### Wired Capable ESPs:
-* Seeed Studio XIAO Sense
-* FREENOVE ESP32-S3-WROOM CAM Board
-
-This is our latest setup recommended for users with wired headsets such as the Valve Index.
-
-**Pros:**
-- Much better performance and higher framerate up to 70 FPS with lower latency
-- No conflicts with advanced FBT setups such as Vive or Tundra Trackers
-- Can be wireless or wired
-- Less soldering required
-
-**Cons:**
-- Requires USB port i.e. on Valve Index and USB hub mounted on your headset
-- Can be slightly more costly
-- When in use with a Vive Facial Tracker, an MTT USB hub is required
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/parts_list.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/parts_list.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 8a39acd..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/parts_list.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,245 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Parts List {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-
-
-
- Please note that no hardware has been fully set in stone, all purchases are at your own risk in case of hardware changes.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- It is good practice to buy more than needed in some cases, namely cameras,programmers and ESPs. This reduces the risk of a DOA (dead on arrival) causing a delay.
-
-
-
-
-## ESP setup options:
-::: danger
-There are two primary categories of trackers supported: wireless and wired.
-It's super important that you really look at all your options and consider your use case before making a decision.
-:::
-
-### Option 1: Wireless over WiFi 2.4 GHz
-
-This offers a good starting point as the ESP boards are cheaper than wired capable trackers.
-However, they can be a bit more temperamental and if you are using a wired headset, they start to make less sense.
-
-**Pros:**
-- Wider user adoption and greater support
-- Low weight, less cables, easier to manage
-
-**Cons:**
-- Requires two external antennas for optimal streaming quality
-- Requires WiFi 2.4 GHz router or access point in reasonable proximity
-- Risk of radio interference with FBT and other WiFi 2.4 GHz devices
-- ESP32-CAM uses more power and heats up due to radio module power needs
-
-### Option 2: Wired over USB Serial (in beta)
-
-This is our latest setup recommended for users with wired headsets such as the Valve Index.
-
-**Pros:**
-- Much better performance and higher framerates up to 70 FPS with lower latency
-- No conflicts with advanced FBT setups such as Vive or Tundra Trackers
-- Can be wireless or wired
-- Less soldering required
-
-**Cons:**
-- Requires USB port i.e. on Valve Index and USB hub mounted on your headset
-- Can be more costly
-
-## Required parts
-With that in mind, here are the required parts for the setup.
-
-### Tracker boards:
-- #### Recommended
- - 2x XIAO ESP32-S3 Sense Modules
- Very small size, wireless and wired support, does not require an additional programmer or separate antennas:
- [SeedStudio](https://www.seeedstudio.com/XIAO-ESP32S3-Sense-p-5639.html)
-
- [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804601970891.html)
-
- Alternatively:
- - 2x Freenove ESP 32-S3 WROOM
- Much larger, price may be higher than the XIAOs, supports wired and wireless as well, does not need a separate programmer, **does not support a separate antenna**.
- [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/FREENOVE-ESP32-S3-WROOM-Compatible-Wireless-Detailed/dp/B0BMQ8F7FN)
-
-- #### A cheaper, wireless only alternative:
- - 2x ESPCAM32 Modules - They are cheaper, requires a separate programmer board, supports only wireless streaming and may require some soldering for attaching separate antennas:
- [AliExpress](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKjL9Cq)
- This board also requires a special programmer board in order to flash the firmware. You'll need only one:
- [AliExpress](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPaPgPu) for just programmers or
- [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/DORHEA-Bluetooth-Development-4-75V-5-25V-Raspberry/dp/B08ZS5YWCG/)
- for 3 ESP32-Cams and programmers without the proper cameras
-
- - 2x External antennas for ESPs
- Required if you're running vive/tundra full body tracking or having issues with streaming. See the full build guide on how to configure the ESP board for antenna use.
-
- - Small (what Prohurtz uses):
- [AliExpress](https://a.aliexpress.com/_ms1TzXc)
-
- - Large:
- [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800868378357.html)
- [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K3ZPY5Z/)
-
-### Cameras
-#### Camera modules:
-
-The cameras that come with the boards will not work, they have an IR filter inside.
-
-The filter can be removed, but doing so may break your cameras.
-Here's how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYH-FWvDbDc
-
-::: danger
-If you decide to remove the filter, wear eye protection while doing so, the removal of the filter will shatter it.
-:::
-
-- #### 2x OV2640 160° FOV IR / Night vers 75mm (850nm)
-
-(select 75MM-160 850nm) [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802853835121.html)
-
-[Amazon alternative](https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Aideepen-Wide-Angle-Megapixel-Support/dp/B09XXPX4SP/) (note that you
-will have to [manually remove the IR filter](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYH-FWvDbDc))
-
-Things worth noting:
-
-- There is an experimental option to purchase OV2640 130° FOV cameras and manually remove the IR filters. This can result in a clearer view of the eye and is smaller so it allows for HMDs like the Bigscreen Beyond, but it's not a default recommendation just yet. Checkout the listing "75MM-130 Degree" [AliEXpress](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804332354572.html)
-
-- If the cameras are Dead on Arrival (DOA), keep in mind that you can swap the lenses with the ones that come with the stock cameras that were included with the ESP32 boards, though they do require extension cables. I recommend just buying more (3-4 instead of just 2).
-
-- #### Optional Ribbon extensions:
-
-Certain mounts may require a cable extension (ex: MUTE's frunk mod)
-To use a mount like that you will need a cable and a connector for each camera.
-Headsets like the Quest 2 do not require extensions if the camera boards are mounted at the bottom of the headset, near the facial interface.
-
-Extensions (select 0.5mm, A-Forward Direction, 24P) [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802223169786.html) (200mm for MUTE's)
-
-Connectors (select 24P) [Aliexpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804096715690.html)
-
-### USB Hubs - for if you are building the wired version
-- 1x USB 3.0+ hub
-The hub needs to support MTT if you wish to use a vive face tracker with the ESPs. Here is a hub that supports MTT and is not expensive [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NDQGSPR)
-
-Ensure that it is of good quality, lightweight, compact in size, and I suggest a minimum of four ports - one for the face tracker, one for the LED kit, and two for ESP32-S3 boards.
-Ensure that you acquire appropriate USB-A to USB-C adapters wherever required. For example the Valve Index only has one USB-A port. Be wary that "mini" adapters with the short ends may not work properly. Ensure the adapter has a long end.
-Such adapter [Amazon.](https://a.co/d/e5C2u82)
-
-- 2x USB C cables (as short as possible) to connect both ESPs (select 0.05m/5cm) [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804171454889.html) or [AliExpress USB C to USB A](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256805789406634.html)
-As the ESP32-S3 has USB-C connectors, you may require some USB-C to USB-A cables depending on your USB hub.
-It's worth noting that the HTC Face Tracker requires a USB-C port, so you may need to consider this requirement as well.
-You may also make custom cables using USB breakout boards of your choice and wire.
-
-### Wires and adapters
-If you are soldering and using custom cables:
-
- - 1x USB type-A male port to power both ESPs or LEDs
-[Bare breakout on AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255801092919590.html)
-[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-DIP-Breakout-Adapter-2-54mm/dp/B09LC8WQCD/)
-\
-[Or one with a cover on AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832820552545.html)
-[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Pigtail-Extension-Cables-Connector-Replacement/dp/B09ZQNJ2DJ/)
-- 1x Lower gauge wire to power ESPs
-[28 AWG gauge wire from AliExpress](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK72cy6)
-[28 AWG Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Fermerry-Silicone-Stranded-Copper-Electrical/dp/B089CTT5X1/)
-
-- 1x Higher gauge wire to power IR emitters (V3 or V4 some assembly required)
-[34 AWG AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804720067942.html)
-
-### IR emitters
-
-#### Recommended:
-We recommend getting the official kits:
-
-- [Solder-less V4 kit](https://store.eyetrackvr.dev/products/v4-mini-fully-solderless-kit) - requires no soldering.
-
-- [Solder wires V4 kit](https://store.eyetrackvr.dev/products/v4-mini-some-assemblly-required) - requires you to solder your own wires to the LED boards.
-
-- [Solder V4 Lite kit](https://store.eyetrackvr.dev/products/v4-1-lite-diy-led-kit) - requires you to solder 2 through hole components and wires to the LED boards.
-
-
-#### Alternatively you can source the parts for V3 yourself:
-
-::: danger
-If they look like something you would find in a TV remote, do NOT use them. Even if you think you can alter them THEY WILL NOT WORK AND PUT YOU AT RISK. If you aren't exactly sure what you are doing, buy them from the LCSC or Digikey link.
-
-**DO NOT BUY FOCUSED ONES!**
-:::
-
-- 4x Unfocused SMD IR emitters
-
-
-
- The smaller ones can not be soldered at temps above 245C or they will burn. Low temp solder is recommended.
-
-
-
-
- - [(Recommended) from LCSC here](https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Infrared-IR-LEDs_XINGLIGHT-XL-3216HIRC-850_C965891.html).
- - [(Alternative) from Digikey here](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/inolux/IN-P32ZTIR/10384796).
-The difference between them is the ones from LCSC are rated for lower power, which means in the event of a short or mishap they should be safer, as well as being smaller in footprint, hence why they are recommended.
-
-- 4x IR emitter PCBs (highly recommended) Gerber files and schematics located [here.](https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR-Hardware/tree/main/IR%20Emmitter)
-
-- 4x 350ohm 1206 SMD resistors for IR emitters (If you are not using PCBs for the emitters then buying regular through-hole resistors is acceptable)
-
-- [357 ohm Digikey here](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stackpole-electronics-inc/RMCF1206FT357R/1759919)
-- [348 ohm LCSC here](https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Chip-Resistor-Surface-Mount_BOURNS-CR1206-FX-3480ELF_C205328.html)
-
-This ensures you get the correct IR emitter parts.
-If you are a Patreon please check out discount codes available to you, and also check out unit pricing.
-
-- 1x Wire to power IR emitters
-[34 AWG AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804720067942.html)
-
-## 3D Printed Mounts
-
-Mounts with a `★` next to them are the recommended mounts for the respected hmd. This is based on user feedback on what works best for most people.
-
-
-
-
- You'll need both - a mount for the IR emitters and a mount for the camera boards, some files include both, some don't.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-## Misc parts/tools
-
-- 1x Hot glue or another form of glue.
-[AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803968572059.html)
-[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Assark-Sticks-School-Repairs-20W/dp/B09FYWQ44L/)
-
-- 1x Soldering iron and solder:
-[Pine64 Pinecil (Highly Recommended)](https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/) + [Amazon Solder](https://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Solder-Electronics-Components-repair/dp/B08M5YP6BN/)
-
-[AliExpress (Generic)](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256801448141079.html)
-[Amazon (Generic)](https://www.amazon.com/Liouhoum-Auto-Sleep-Adjustable-Temperature-Thermostatic/dp/B08PZBPXLZ/ref=sr_1_9)
-
-- 2x-4x Heatsinks (Optional) - for the ESP32-CAM
-[AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803892794950.html) (14mm for ESP, 8mm for voltage regulator)
-
-### Other Headsets
-
-If you own another headset not listed above, that means there are no mounts designed for them yet. If you have basic skills in modeling or think up a solution to mount cams and emitters, please try to make a mount and then let us in the discord know so it can be added here. Any headset that can fit the camera is potentially compatible. If you are willing, give it a shot to design a mount for the rest of the community.
-
-Check out our basic guide on making your own mount [here.](./creating_your_own_mount)
-
-
-
-
- If you have a headset mount that is not listed above, please let us know in the discord so it can be added here.
-
-
-
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_cameras.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_cameras.md
deleted file mode 100644
index dcbcada..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_cameras.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,96 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# IR Filter Removal {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-Some cameras require a removal of the IR filter, so the sensors are able to pick up the lighting provided by the IR LED's.
-Many times, the IR filter will still be on the 160° night vision model. If your feed looks dark, this may be why!
-
-### 130° IR Filter removal
-
-
-
-### 160° IR Filter removal
-
-
-
-##
-
-# Protecting a Camera Ribbon Cable {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-
-The ribbon cables that these cameras use are notoriously prone to damage rendering them useless.
-
-By wrapping them in tape such as electrical tape and following best practices covered in the guide, you can significantly reduce the risk of killing a camera.
-
-It is recommended to do this before building your setup so you are less likely to kill a camera in the process of building a setup.
-
-## Wrapping the Camera Ribbon
-First get a roll of electrical tape to wrap the camera ribbon.
-It does not strictly need to be electrical tape, but that is what I have found to work good, (and look good too).
-
-
-
-Place the camera on the tape so that the entire bottom area including the sensor are covered and that one side of the camera ribbon has slightly more tape (helps make it look good).
-
-
-
-Cut the tape from the roll, here I used flat cutters.
-Be careful to not cut the camera connector in the process.
-
-
-
-
-With the tape cut from the roll, lay it down and get out a X-ACTO knife.
-
-
-
-Begin to cut around the camera connector so the tape can be peeled off.
-
-
-
-
-When each side has been cut, begin to peel off the part that covered the connections.
-
-
-
-
-
-Now, carefully cut around the camera sensor part to remove its "skirt" leaving tape on the back of it.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Gently pull off this outline of tape from the camera.
-
-
-
-
-Begin to wrap the tape along the ribbon cable by first folding in the slightly shorter side.
-
-
-
-Fold over the other side.
-
-
-
-And you are done!
-
-
-## Best Practices When Handling Cameras
-* Do not pull or jerk on the ribbon
-* Do not fold tightly or bend the ribbon cable sharper than ~45 degrees if possible
-* Do not expose to sharp objects or crevices
-* The less wear while handling or putting on/off a headset the better
-
-
-## Conclusion
-
-You have successfully wrapped your camera to be protected and learned the best practices with handling cameras!
diff --git a/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_xiao.md b/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_xiao.md
deleted file mode 100644
index a1da60b..0000000
--- a/src/pages/how_to_build/preparing_xiao.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,82 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# How to prepare a Seeed Studio XIAO Sense ESP32 {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## What's in the box
-
-Your XIAO should come with the following components:
-* ESP32-S3 Main Board
-* Camera Hat With Low FOV Camera
-* External Antenna
-
-
-
-## Wired vs Wireless
-The only difference in hardware config between wireless and wired XIAOs is if the antenna is connected or not.
-
-## Wireless Configuration
-If you are making a wireless setup, you will need to connect the antenna.
-
-Line up the antenna connector to the one on the board,
-
-
-then press firmly until it snaps on.
-
-
-
-Once connected it should be flat like this:
-
-
-## Wired Configuration
-If you are making a wired setup, you do not need to attach the antenna.
-Set it aside and continue to the next step.
-
-
-## Connecting the Camera Hat
-
-First, locate the connector on the camera hat, and the corresponding one on the XIAO main board circled below.
-
-
-Press down carefully until it snaps on.
-
-
-
-Once connected remember to be careful, it is known that these connectors can break semi-easily so avoid ripping them apart too many times or twisting on them weirdly.
-
-## Removing the Camera
-First we need to remove the existing camera from the XIAO and replace it with a higher FOV longer ribbon camera.
-
-Begin by lifting up the grey part of the camera connector gently until it raises up.
-
-
-
-Now grab the camera and gently wiggle it out of the connector.
-
-
-
-## Connecting the camera
-The camera should have the pins facing downward, you should only see the black end.
-
-Line up the camera with the pins on the connector like below.
-
-
-Push the camera in by using a finger on each side of the connector, slowly pushing straight in until it stops.
-Be gentle so you do not damage the ribbon cable.
-
-
-The cable should go about half way in like this image:
-
-
-Now, close the camera connector by flipping the grey part down.
-
-
-
-## Conclusion
-You should now have your XIAO Sense ESP32 ready for [firmware flashing!](../firmware_guide/flashing_tool)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/index.md b/src/pages/index.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 661feb4..0000000
--- a/src/pages/index.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,46 +0,0 @@
----
-layout: home
-head:
- - - meta
- - name: keywords
- content: EyeTrackVR (ETVR) VR Virtual Reality Eye Tracking VRChat Social VR Games VR Game VR Games VRChat Avatar VRChat Avatars VRChat Eye Tracking VRChat Eye Tracking Avatar VRChat Eye Tracking Avatars
-hero:
- name: EyeTrackVR Docs
- text: Open-source and affordable VR eye tracking.
- image:
- src: /logo_light.png
- alt: ETVR logo
- tagline: For Social VR Games via OSC and UDP protocol.
- actions:
- - theme: brand
- text: Get Started
- link: /getting_started/intro
- - theme: alt
- text: View on GitHub
- link: https://github.com/EyeTrackVR/EyeTrackVR
-features:
- - icon: ⚡️
- title: Open Source
- details: fully open source and free to use.
- - icon: 🎉
- title: Community Driven
- details: built by you for you.
- - icon: 💰
- title: Affordable
- details: affordable and easy to use.
- - icon: 🎮
- title: Nearly All VR Headsets
- details: EyeTrackVR works with nearly all VR headsets.
- - icon: 🔨
- title: Completely DIY
- details: completely DIY and easy to build.
- - icon: 🌐
- title: Open Platform
- details: open platform and works with any Social VR game.
- - icon: 🔏
- title: Privacy Focused
- details: privacy focused and does not collect any data, hosted on your own PC.
- - icon: 📡
- title: Open Protocol
- details: EyeTrackVR uses the Open Sound Control (OSC) protocol.
----
diff --git a/src/pages/misc/faq.md b/src/pages/misc/faq.md
deleted file mode 100644
index ece5b79..0000000
--- a/src/pages/misc/faq.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,11 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# Frequently Asked Questions {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-
-
----
-
-
diff --git a/src/pages/misc/jlc3dp.md b/src/pages/misc/jlc3dp.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 941cb88..0000000
--- a/src/pages/misc/jlc3dp.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,15 +0,0 @@
-# 3D Printing Service JLC3DP {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-## If you don't own a 3D Printer, you can order high quality prints by the dollar using JLC3DP
-https://jlc3dp.com/3d-printing-quote
-
-### Upload your STL files with the following print settings
-Do note that if you are printing for a example, a lens mount, you may need to mirror it in blender, or any slicer, to get both a left and right STL and upload them separate. Do not upload them combined
-
-
-
-### Choose a cheaper shipping option, for me this is global standard direct line
-
-
-
-In the likely event you get an [email or alert](https://i.imgur.com/t2QmpBY.png) from JLC asking for consent to print as the STL has thin walls, you can agree to the print without worry.
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/src/pages/misc/vrc_avatar_setup.md b/src/pages/misc/vrc_avatar_setup.md
deleted file mode 100644
index 9138344..0000000
--- a/src/pages/misc/vrc_avatar_setup.md
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,37 +0,0 @@
-
-
-# How to set up your avatar for eye tracking: {.text-[var(--font-accent)]}
-
-Here is an avatar setup video created by a contributor:
-
-
-
-
-
-Another good resource is the [VRC Face Tracking Wiki](https://github.com/benaclejames/VRCFaceTracking/wiki/Eye-Tracking-Setup) and their [Discord](https://discord.gg/Fh4FNehzKn).
-
-
-### We currently use the following paramaters
-
-`LeftEyeX`
-
-`RightEyeX`
-
-`EyesY`
-
-`LeftEyeLidExpandedSqueeze`
-
-`RightEyeLidExpandedSqueeze`
-
-
-
-
-
- We currently only support float parameters, please adjust your setup accordingly.
-