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@ -41,15 +41,17 @@ Latest Fusion 360 Model: https://a360.co/3BzkU0n
More documentation on the BOM and what parts you need to order is coming in the future - thanks so much for your interest! Follow me on [Twitter](https://twitter.com/scottbez1) for the latest updates on this and other projects. More documentation on the BOM and what parts you need to order is coming in the future - thanks so much for your interest! Follow me on [Twitter](https://twitter.com/scottbez1) for the latest updates on this and other projects.
View the [Base PCB Interactive BOM](https://smartknob-artifacts.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/master/electronics/view_base-ibom.html) and [Screen PCB Interactive BOM](https://smartknob-artifacts.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/master/electronics/view_screen-ibom.html) (or, the combined [BOM csv](https://smartknob-artifacts.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/master/electronics/view_base-bom.csv)) for electronics/hardware parts list.
A few miscellaneous notes in the meantime: A few miscellaneous notes in the meantime:
- This can _probably_ be FDM 3D printed with a well-tuned printer, but the parts shown in videos/photos were MJF printed in nylon for tight tolerances and better surface finish - This can _probably_ be FDM 3D printed with a well-tuned printer, but the parts shown in videos/photos were MJF printed in nylon for tight tolerances and better surface finish
- If you wanted a simpler build, you could omit the LCD and just merge the knob + glass from the model into a single STL to get a closed-top knob - If you wanted a simpler build, you could omit the LCD and just merge the knob + glass from the model into a single STL to get a closed-top knob
- There's limited space inside the LCD mount for wiring, and 8 wires need to fit through the hole in the center. I used 30 AWG wire-wrapping wire. Enamel-coated wire would probably work too. - There's limited space inside the LCD mount for wiring, and 8 wires need to fit through the hole in the center. I used 30 AWG wire-wrapping wire. Enamel-coated wire would probably work too.
- Strain gauges are BF350-3AA, and glued in place with CA glue (I'll include video of this process in the future, but essentially I used kapton tape to pick up the strain gauge and hold it in place during curing). This has to be done after reflow soldering, and would be hard to remove in case of a mistake, so MAKE SURE TO PRACTICE FIRST! - Strain gauges are BF350-3AA, and glued in place with CA glue (I'll include video of this process in the future, but essentially I used kapton tape to pick up the strain gauge and hold it in place during curing). This has to be done after reflow soldering, and would be hard to remove/fix in case of a mistake, so MAKE SURE TO PRACTICE GLUING strain gauges to other items before attempting on the PCB!
- The TMC6300 is _tiny_ and has a bottom pad, so I would seriously consider getting a stencil along with the PCB order. Even with the stencil I needed to manually clean up some bridging afterward; I _highly_ recommend Chip Quik NC191 gel flux, available on [Amazon](https://amzn.to/3MGDSr5) (or use this [non-affiliate link](https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Flow-No-Clean-syringe-plunger/dp/B08KJPG3NZ) instead) or from your electronics distributor of choice. - The TMC6300 is _tiny_ and has a bottom pad, so I would seriously consider getting a stencil along with the PCB order. Even with the stencil I needed to manually clean up some bridging afterward; I _highly_ recommend Chip Quik NC191 gel flux, available on [Amazon](https://amzn.to/3MGDSr5) (or use this [non-affiliate link](https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Flow-No-Clean-syringe-plunger/dp/B08KJPG3NZ) instead) or from your electronics distributor of choice. Flux is also very helpful when soldering the LCD ribbon cable to to screen PCB.
- For breadboard prototyping, the [TMC6300-BOB](https://www.trinamic.com/support/eval-kits/details/tmc6300-bob/) is awesome and way easier to work with than the bare chip - For breadboard prototyping, the [TMC6300-BOB](https://www.trinamic.com/support/eval-kits/details/tmc6300-bob/) is awesome and way easier to work with than the bare chip if you just want to play around with low current BLDC motors
- Make sure to check the [open issues](https://github.com/scottbez1/smartknob/issues) - this design is not yet "stable", so beware that everything may not go smoothly, but that's the fun of DIY, right? - Make sure to check the [open issues](https://github.com/scottbez1/smartknob/issues) - this design is not yet "stable", so beware that everything may not go smoothly. I would not recommend ordering these parts yourself until the [stable release v1.0 milestone](https://github.com/scottbez1/smartknob/milestone/1) is complete, as there are some mechanical interference issues in the current revision.
Future plans: Future plans:
- consider switch to using an ESP32-S3-MINI-1 module (once Arduino core support is complete), as that would allow for direct USB HID support (for joystick/macro-pad type input to a computer) - consider switch to using an ESP32-S3-MINI-1 module (once Arduino core support is complete), as that would allow for direct USB HID support (for joystick/macro-pad type input to a computer)
@ -195,7 +197,7 @@ I wish I could tell you now, but I don't actually know off the top of my head. C
**Does it work with XYZ?** **Does it work with XYZ?**
No. So far I've only implemented enough firmware for the demo shown in the video, so you can't actually use it for anything productive yet. The basic detent configuration API is there, but not much else. Lots of firmware work remains to be done. If you build one, I'd love your help adding support for XYZ though! Not yet. So far I've only implemented enough firmware for the demo shown in the video, so you can't actually use it for anything productive yet. The basic detent configuration API is there, but not much else. Lots of firmware work remains to be done. If you build one, I'd love your help adding support for XYZ though!
**Can I buy one as a kit or already assembled?** **Can I buy one as a kit or already assembled?**